If your not doing the 2-3-2 movement you won't need this area beefed up. I'm adding extra to this area and I'm also going to add 2 more shoulder plates to the inside of Dave's shoulder plate which will make this area 3/8 thick for the outer leg bearings to mount. I just figure the movement will add stress to this area and it needs to be strong.
I started fitting the bearing into the outer leg. What I had to do was cut a new size sideplate that Dave E. uses in his build. The plate had to be mount 3/8 further into the leg opening to make up the difference that the bearing used. The bearing has more than enough turning radius and has very little play. I used Dave's blueprint to center the bearing and you can see the drilled holes that Dave marks on the blueprints. I have 2 drive system in mind and hopefully one of them will work. I guess I should warn everyone not to try this until I get it all worked out.
I bought 2 of these 6 inch bearings from Rockler, I will use these for the outer legs on R5. Since the legs won't have to move a great distance to do the 2-3-2 and the bearing weight rating is more than enough for a styrene droid, I'm sure they will work. I will have to trim the square at the points to fit in the droid. The good part about this bearing is it's only 1/4 inch thick which will be easy to modify the frame to accept the bearing.
This is the 2nd bottom plate that gets glued to the bottom of the frame. This makes the bottom 1/4 inch thick and much stronger. I used 3 screws in the center to help me align the plates together. The only thing is if I had to do this again, I think I would have just used a 1/4 inch thick plate instead of laminating the 2- 1/8 inch plates together. I'm sure Dave does this to eliminate the need for additional styrene.
Please keep your comments clean and G rated. This site is for a family or children to enjoy and learn about building their own Droid. I hope this helps others that have had a dream of having a Star Wars droid in their home.