Extra support for Shoulders

If your not doing the 2-3-2 movement you won't need this area beefed up.
I'm adding extra to this area and I'm also going to add 2 more shoulder plates
to the inside of Dave's shoulder plate which will make this area 3/8 thick
for the outer leg bearings to mount.
I just figure the movement will add stress to this area and it needs to be strong.

I started fitting the bearing into the outer leg.
What I had to do was cut a new size sideplate that Dave E. uses in his build.
The plate had to be mount 3/8 further into the leg opening to make up the
difference that the bearing used.
The bearing has more than enough turning radius and has very little play.
I used Dave's blueprint to center the bearing and you can see the drilled
holes that Dave marks on the blueprints.
I have 2 drive system in mind and hopefully one of them will work.
I guess I should warn everyone not to try this until I get it all worked out.

Leg Bearings

I bought 2 of these 6 inch bearings from Rockler, I will use these for the outer legs on R5. Since the legs won't have to move a great distance to do the 2-3-2 and the bearing weight rating is more than enough for a styrene droid, I'm sure they will work.
I will have to trim the square at the points to fit in the droid.
The good part about this bearing is it's only 1/4 inch thick which will be easy
to modify the frame to accept the bearing.

2nd Bottom Plate

This is the 2nd bottom plate that gets glued to the bottom of the frame.
This makes the bottom 1/4 inch thick and much stronger.
I used 3 screws in the center to help me align the plates together.
The only thing is if I had to do this again, I think I would have just used a
1/4 inch thick plate instead of laminating the 2- 1/8 inch plates together.
I'm sure Dave does this to eliminate the need for additional styrene.

Top Plate and Shoulder Plates

The top plate has holes marked that you will need to drill for the dome bearing
and the motor mount in the rear of the droid.
Lay the top plate down with the scribed marks facing up and set the frame on
top then glue all the top verticals in place.
After this is done and dried, You can glue in the Shoulder Plates in the sides.
The shoulder plates are for the outer legs to attach.

Top Rear Verticals

We glued the top rear verticals in place and it's the same process as
the others.
Once these dry, We can glue the top ring into place.

Front Vent Area

This area was alittle bit more tricky than the others.
Dave E. say's to pay close attention to this area and make sure you get the alignment
very accurate or the frame will try and twist.
I'm pretty positive that we got it right, But I won't know until I move on
with the build.